A nineteenth-century laboratory where chocolate, wine, and spirits learn to behave scientifically.
Manuel complet, théorique et pratique, du chocolatier, limonadier, distillateur-liquoriste
confiseur, pâtissier suisse, suivi d'un traité sur l'art de faire et de conserver les vins et les vinaigres de table et de toilette.
1841, Paris, Lyon, Mathias; Savy jeune
¥394,100 JPY
Overview
Published in Paris and Lyon in 1841, this very rare first edition is one of the most ambitious technical culinary manuals of the nineteenth century. Charles-Joseph Barretta brings together eight distinct treatises, forming a vast compendium of applied gastronomy at the crossroads of craftsmanship, chemistry, and early industrial thinking. The work reflects a post-Revolutionary culture obsessed with method, reproducibility, and control. Barretta addresses professionals rather than amateurs, translating artisanal knowledge into precise procedures supported by measurements, temperatures, and apparatus. Eight engraved plates illustrate distillation and production equipment, signaling a transition from domestic craft to semi-industrial practice. The final and substantial sections devoted to wine, aromatized beverages, and vinegars elevate the volume far beyond a confectioner’s handbook, making it a remarkable proto-enological reference.
Inside the book
Alongside extensive sections on chocolate, confectionery, syrups, and distillation, the manual includes an extraordinary quantity of recipes for ratafia, aromatized waters, and liqueurs, many of striking contemporary relevance. Numerous ratafia preparations appear, including rare and unusual variants such as truffle ratafia, as well as complex herbal and floral compositions that anticipate modern craft spirits and vermouth. The treatise on winemaking follows the process from harvest through fermentation, with careful attention to technical variables. Barretta discusses optimal harvest timing for different regional styles, including Beaujolais, Mâconnais, and Bourgogne, and examines fermentation management in detail, addressing temperature control, carbonic acid retention, pressing techniques, soufrage, and clarification through fining agents such as gelatine de corne de cerf. Wine diseases receive extended treatment, including a notably deep analysis of asphyxie in winemaking, reflecting early awareness of fermentation hazards and oxygen management. The section on vermouth bridges wine and liqueur traditions, offering structured recipes and aromatization methods. The concluding chapters present an astonishing array of aromatic and technical vinegar recipes, intended both for table use and cosmetic or hygienic purposes, revealing vinegar as a sophisticated, engineered product rather than a simple byproduct.
Why La Fenice chose it
A delicious crossroads of cooking, chemistry, and proto-industry, with a welcome detour into wine. An irresistible pleasure.
Pp. [2] of title page, IV, 814, VIII plates.
Paperback binding in hazelnut paper dummy cover with title label pasted on front cover. Modern handwritten note at the title page. Page 799 misnumbered 899. Quite heavy foxing throughout, quite expected given the paper quality; in acceptable conditions.
Dimensions (inches): 8.5 x 5.5 x 1.5
Charles-Joseph Barretta (fl. 1841), French confectioner. In the introduction to the present volume he notes that for 36 years, in several regions of Europe, he “practiced the various professions of chocolatier, lemonade maker, confectioner, pastry chef, and liqueur maker-distiller".