Inside the book

In his introduction, Simon notes both the shortages “in the sixth year” of the Second World War and his aim in writing the book: to “sharpen the critical sense and the wine sense of the rising generation.” The contents include: Best Vintages, Sherry, Port, Madeira, Claret, Burgundy, Champagne, Hocks and Moselles, The White Wines of France, and Other Wines.
The work begins with a list of best vintages, ranking wines from 1847 to 1944, and continues with detailed accounts of the evolution and performance of major wines across those decades. It offers a unique perspective on the commercial development of wine, evoking names that have vanished, those that endure, and the shifting character of taste.
Simon recalls dinners where Margaux 1900 was purchased for 30 francs, Mouton Rothschild enjoyed from a magnum, and Romanée-Conti 1889 savored in 1932 with great satisfaction. He defines champagne as “the most helpful wine in case of debility,” remembers Ayala’s first dry shipment in 1865 (long before Pommery’s claim) and often cites Mumm, once immensely popular in England before being requisitioned as a German brand during the war.
The book concludes with Simon’s accounts of his Lucullan dinners, complete with guests, menus, and wines, offering not only a guide to fine drinking but also a glimpse into the world of London society at its most refined.